Pintame azul |
Monday, November 22, 2010
Close calls with Cholera and other Tourist Hazards
A number of Wednesday’s ago:
My community and I are preparing to start the 5 day uninterrupted process of building a 10,000 gallon water tank.
All the usual – will it rain? Who has a donkey without a lame foot for transporting materials? (No – one – ok, we’ll carry cement on our backs). Can the mayor buy the cement? Oh, it is raining.
The next day we began the uninterruptable process and were initially stalled by the rain. This was OK, since Dominicans are slowly learning thanks to the US Peace Corps, that they won’t actually melt like witches if they get wet while working. Peace Corps then calls me. really they couldn’t call me but I found out through gossip – I am to be ‘consolidated’ in the Capital with all other volunteers on Friday for a training on Cholera awareness and prevention.
I rushed off to the capital Thursday night, drank a few beers, and learned that I really should wash my hands. I returned to my community Friday night. The masons and work brigades had successfully ‘poured’ the tank floor without me – Gracias a Dios.
For the next four days I didn’t really have time to contemplate or discuss much how someday soon Cholera would probably be on the Dominican side of the Island making things less fun. We mixed sixty 100 pound bags of cement with the other ingredients (sand, gravel…) all by hand, yelled at each other a lot, and drank at least a gallon of rum on Sunday to keep the workers happy about losing their day off.
Was it Tuesday?:
Then the Peace Corps decided that Americans might actually melt if we get rained on. (Peace Corps volunteers are generally a bit ‘colder’ than the average Dominican and also make people work a lot, so we could be easily taken for witches.) For fear that we might get stuck in our villages working in the rain as we should, the Peace Corps ordered volunteers in the region to head to a hotel in Santiago to wait out ‘Hurricane (what’s his/her name?)’. Obligated to be in Santiago by 3pm and also obligated to finish the roof on the tank, the community and I said the hell with it and made a great last stand to finish the roof. It was beautiful and chaotic. Women were carrying materials up the muddy hill after five days of rain. A small underestimate of sand and required us to borrow the donkey once again from it’s now drunken but complacent owner at 6 in the evening as night approached. Feeling sort of silly about not having people bring more sand up earlier in the day when it was easy to do, I decided to help remediate by making two trips up the slippery slope with a bag of cement on my back. As I raced the donkey up the hill (I won), the drunk men at the bottom pondered my chances of success – “He’ll never make it!”…. “Hombre!.. Of course he will, he’s a horse”
The masons and I finished the tank as the last light of day disappeared. We headed down the hill covered in mud in near silence – a mixture of outrage and elation in the air. To amend things, I ate a third plated of rice and spaghetti for the day. At home, I packed my bag in 5 minutes and threw a couple buckets of rainwater over me to get rid of the worst of the mud and cement. I got into Santiago on the last bus of the night. Walking into the hotel six hours late, I was surprised that the other volunteers in the lobby were not overly surprised at my nighttime arrival. Not much surprises us though, and the condition of my hair probably explained that I had been working. A hot shower made a good end of the day.
As we waited out the hurricane, I waited for my mom to arrive. She got into the beach town of Puerto Plata Thursday morning as planned. I took the bus from Santiago, picked her up and as the sun shown on a pleasant day explained that we had to head straight back to lockdown in the hotel in Santiago on the interior of the country – There’s a hurricane don’t ya know. We spent a couple nice days in Santiago at the hotel eating more vegetables than I usually get in Dominican dishes. I think my mom liked talking to all the interesting Americans, even if one did intentionally fart for her, thinking that she was just a new volunteer (that would make it ok?).
On Saturday when we finally escaped back to my community, we went out to the street at night to my host brother’s birthday party. The traditional birthday party involved really loud music, beer, and a stew called Asopao prepared at 11pm. We walked about and my mom met my neighbor’s as well as she could without understanding a single word. Just as the stew was about ready, it started to rain – and rain – and rain. We waited out the storm at the general store. The stream by the store is known for flooding. We were moated in by water sitting at the Domino table with the guys. The rain had also caught a crab and a rat by surprised. Washed down the stream, we saw them crawl their way out of the water before being swept into the culvert. We caught the crab and contemplated eating it. I don’t think mom was interested. It was really a great introduction to my life for Mom, especially when three hours later; we decided to just walk home in the rain. When she realized how close we were to my house, Mom just about lost it. She didn’t realize that we had been waiting out the rain simply for fear of getting wet.
After a few marvelous days in the ‘campo’ (think Eckerman) eating bananas and salami while painting my house blue and yellow with a professional crew of 5 to 17 year olds who were happy to work for a glass or two of coca cola (beer for the big people), we were ready to see the real Dominican Republic. We got on motorcycles (yes, she did ride a motorcycle taxi not once but twice), and headed for the beach. We checked into a random All-Inclusive outside of Puerto Plata. This was my first time at an All-Inclusive. For those of you familiar with the movie (or the concept) of Sanky Panky, it was pretty much exactly like that – even a dude in a chicken suit.
Fortunately, I was saved from my righteous self, by a group of girls from Toronto that I initially mistook for Dominicans. I was really only sure they were Canadian and not Dominican when one asked for gravy on her french fries. Spent a couple nights dancing to music in English that I am far too detached from to know the words to. On Friday, my Mom and I went on a Catamaran Snorkeling cruise, complete with 15 German couples, American style ground beef tacos, and no wind. We had a good time, I think my Mom and I out-snorkeled the Germans without contest. I’m glad I don’t have an open-bar on my own sailboat – I would have drowned in Lake Superior long ago. During a long walk on the beach Saturday, a realtor offered to sell us property on the only undeveloped stretch of beach around (this was why we wanted to walk there). Not interested in purchasing the Sheldrake River mouth (a close resemblance – Don’t sell it Grandpa), we bought some jewelry from the realtor instead. Yes, he sold beachfront property and fishing line necklaces.
After dropping off my mom at the airport and chilling on the beach some more, I crashed at a volunteer’s house in the city of Puerto Plata. Arriving in my community, I was a bit hung-over from the general excessiveness of two days at an all-inclusive (how does one spend a week there?). I missed my Mom, felt an urge to visit Toronto, and still felt uncomfortable about Germans, but I had work to do.
Monday morning I spent staking out pipeline with my trusty neighbors while the remaining ‘boys’ dug trench. With one day of work at site complete, it was time to leave again. Tuesday morning I headed for the cold mountains of Constanza for a one year in service training with other volunteers. It was cold, which was amazing. We had a fireplace, marshmallows, and pine trees. I was very happy to have long underwear with me (I might freeze solid when I arrive in Detroit on December 18th). We gave each other advice on our projects and did some ‘research and development’ on improved cook stoves. The Peace Corps helps families build stoves that use less firewood and don’t coat your lungs and cookhouse with black soot. The one we were building at the training didn’t get past a lump of clay (see photo album) but I really hope I can work more on this project in my remaining year here.
Anyways, it is Saturday, and I am just happy to have a few days back in Rio Grande. Today’s work was pretty standard – ditch digging and me running around getting tools and materials to cross a small stream. Hopefully I’ll be caught up enough with my job as ‘Engineer’ to go back to digging the trench with pick and shovel along with everyone else (if I don’t get back to manual labor my biceps won’t fill out my Dominican t-shirts).
While writing this, I’ve run out of time to get into town to post this on the Internet – it’ll have to wait till Monday. Until then it’s breathing smoke in the kitchen, a sip of rum, Mass in Spanish, Sunday pork rinds, and catching up on gossip.
Monday, October 11, 2010
Como está usted? ... 'Toy Vivo. (How are you? ... I'm alive) - a common Dominican response.
Today was pretty nice (tal vez chevere nays!). I got up at 6:20am, put on my cleanest pair of dirty pants and sombrero, went to the neighbor’s house for the ritual cafecito (morning shot of extremely sweetened coffee), called the dog and headed out to work. I figured the morning would go well as we all arrived around the same time and not I nor anyone else complained about being late, early, hung over, or otherwise incapable of digging.
After a few hours of uneventful trenching, my water committee president showed up to get me to go meet with the mayor. I was prepared as I had put on my cleanest dirty jeans – now dirtier and with new holes in the knees – and changed into a dry t-shirt. We strolled into the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) side by side, the president in dress slacks and me sporting the best sweat and mud in town. Shortly after entering I had to run towards the door and give Loki a weak kick in the rump with my rubber boot. I don’t think she knew that dogs aren’t allowed to talk to the mayor. After coffee #2 of the day we were quickly shuffled in to Julio’s office. The new mayor confirmed the continued support of the project by the government. We agreed that he would buy the cement for our water tank construction coming up at the end of October and that he would also send the government work brigade as requested, starting Monday. We left with a victory against corrupt government and a bit closer to project completion.
I hiked back up the hill to the work site and dug some more, sweating through that second dry shirt. At mid day we had placed six 3” distribution pipes and the Tee for the connection to the first home in the distribution system.
At home I ate some predictably tasty rice, beans, and meat. Sitting on my porch, the day only got better, as the afternoon rain fizzled into a drizzle. The dry afternoon allowed us to have our monthly community water project meeting. It also went surprisingly well. We started on time and discussed, pondered, bickered, and decided on a number of topics. Afterwards I sat in the little park in front of the general stories and traded insults and jokes with the guys.
It is after ten o’clock and I am decidedly happy. Despite realizing how ridiculously over salted the eggs were for dinner today, I can’t complain – because I’m not complaining, I don’t think I even yelled at anyone today.
It’s hard to be unhappy when I have cookies and snow to look forward to at Christmas!
P.S. for any of you prone to assume that I must be suffering here in the Peace Corps in a ‘developing country’, don’t over think me looking forward to going home. I think I’m about as bummed about missing the holidays here, as I am excited to go home. I’ve decided to try getting some Dominican Christmas celebration in early December -- I will have to eat potato salad and roast pork and go out dancing and drinking rum ‘puro’ before my plane leaves. I’m sure some Dominicans will help me out as they understand that in the US people have no fun and can’t make noise and can’t break any rules. This happens to be entirely true – although I disagree entirely.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
In the trenches
Dominican- Y como va el trabajo? Ya empezaron? (How is the project going? Did you start construction?)
Me (yo) - No (No)
Dominican – y cuando, entonces? (when then?)
Me (yo) – Casi casi, ya pronto arrancamos. (almost, soon we’ll start!)
This is the conversation that all ‘water’ volunteers repeat 100s of times during their first 6 months to a year on site. Now it’s really fun to respond something like
‘Ay piipoo, hace mucho! Ya tenemos como dos meses faja’o! Tu no supiste?’
(Whoa, started a long time ago! We’ve got like 2 months of work in. Where were you?)_
So here’s a summary of what we’ve accomplished
1. moved sand and gravel to tank site
2. moved sand, gravel, and cement to intake works site
3. Constructed smaller intake works
4. Constructed larger intake works
5. Connected two sources/ intake works
6. Crossed large streambed with a buried pipeline in concrete
7. Placed 250+/- meters of PVC pipes in trenches buried 1.5 to 3 feet deep
8. Crossed over two temporal streams in the air with galvanized pipes.
9. Gotten Ryan’s clothes really dirty every day
The next kilometer or so to reach the tank site should go much quicker. I think we can get pipes there in about a month at which point we will either start on placing distribution lines or build the tank. Since we have gotten started, a number of families have joined the project (skeptics…), which will make the work go quicker and the benefits greater.
Thanks again to anyone who donated to the ‘PCPP’ Grant for the project through the Peace Corps site. We have actually received the money now and I am just trying to find time between work and afternoon rainstorms to buy 700+ more 19’ PVC pipes with the money.
Excuse me for lack of communication over the last month or so – being tired and busy – and now rain – makes it hard to get out to use the internet or find phone service. At least I think about calling home every day!
To finish up, here are some things, besides work, that have kept me happy lately –
· Seeing a cool green frog on a big leaf that no one wanted to kill (Dominicans are very afraid of things that jump)
· Other dudes remarking with surprise that my machete is sharp “pero CORTAAA..”
· Ripe bananas
· ‘Swimming’ in the river – it’s not all that deep
· bathing in the stream – nice and cold
· Some of my plants (peppers, oregano..) are actually growing!
· Motorcycle trips on hot days (there’s always a breeze)
The afternoon storm has begun, so I think I will take a nap until the rain passes. Hopefully I can make it into town today to post this blog.
-Ryan
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Project progresses despite rains
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Por fin! It’s here – a new blog entry! - Dogs, Donations, Downpours
Not sure when the last time I wrote something on the blog was. Since elections it has been a bit slow on big news. We keep working away trying to obtain funding for the water project while speculating on whether or not politicians will come through with any money. Talk more about that later.
May is typically a rainy season but May decided to wait until June this year. We’ve had downpours and wind every afternoon for the past week. More exciting, there is also thunder and lightning to go with the rain. As neighbors had said during the drizzle of December, the heavy rains we are experiencing now make far less mud than the light rains. Rather than sitting still, all of the clay and silt is washed down paths, ditches, gutters, and streams into the river. Obviously this has it’s own negative effects – the river looks like hot chocolate, but I’m just happy to be able to walk five minutes from the paved road to my house without accumulating an inch of mud under and around my shoes.
I have nearly finished construction of the block and concrete kitchen counter in my house (it still needs a drain pipe to the outside). I have been buying odds and ends of kitchen ingredients when I am in the town or city. On my last trip to Santiago I bought my first jar of peanut butter, which is now over half gone without really having done much more than eat it with a fork or knife. I really just want to clean out the jar for ant-proof storage of dry milk powder. Since I don’t have a REAL oven and this country is lacking in REAL baked goods, I bought an ‘Olla de Horno’ a while ago. It’s like a fancy bunt pan that you can put on top of a stove burner that functions just as well as a regular oven (most likely with much less fuel too). Since then I have averaged about two cakes a week including vanilla, banana bread, and chocolate banana. Tomorrow I have been contracted to make a cake at a neighbor’s house. The general lack of good baked goods here makes it pretty easy to please people. I’m going to try making bread soon – since the standard bread here is even worse than the standard cake. Possibilities are limitless, except that any baked invention has to be shaped like a giant Cheerio. I expect that genetically modified baking chickens with a 2” diameter hole in the middle will be available soon.
Looking for ripe bananas to make cakes has had a side benefit – various neighbors and kids are donating me ripe or ripening bananas (and related fruits) much more often. One of my favorites in close competition is the RULO. It is a fatter than a banana, shorter than a plantain, and with a flavor different than either. Quite disgusting boiled green, they are great ripe. The chubby RULO is also rumored to fatten up the CULO. If you aren’t sure what body part the C#L* is, check out the song of the same name by Pitbull and Lil Jon – you might figure it out.
Alright, so that is enough of food… What else is fun in life? Puppies! Despite being in the running for “Peace Corps Volunteer least interested in getting a dog”, I inadvertently acquired a campo doggy a few days ago. After a long morning hiking up in the hills from the spring along the future water line route, I got to my house, unlocked the door and soon found a puppy under a table. I took it outside and asked who’s it was. The Neighbor kid said – “Oh, that’s ours we were wondering where it went.!” Then later “it seems to like you, you can have it if you want!” I made no indication that I wanted it, which I guess meant that I did, because he didn’t take it back and the puppy has no intention of leaving. It’s a great little dog except for a couple things:
1) Had or has worms
2) Ticks in its ears
3) Fleas
4) Whines at night because I won’t let her in the house
5) I mentioned her – it is a she-dog
6) My various neighbors have about ten male dogs collectively. The will be very ‘happy’ err ‘excited’ when she’s older.
But still, she’s pretty cute, seems to be just as healthy and possibly bigger than some of her brothers, and hopefully will follow me fearlessly through the hills as I hack my way down paths with my machete and rubber boots.
**Please see latest PICASA album for pictures of Dog (needs a name), rulo, cake, and kitchen counter. **
Besides cooking, parties, and a puppy, I have really been working too. These rains have yet again shown why the community needs a new water system. The mud I mentioned that washes into the river has been clogging up the pipes lately either making the water dirty or causing it not to arrive at the houses at all. In preparation for buying materials, brigade captains recently helped me organize workers to resurvey the line from the source to the tank – allowing for a final pipe design of that portion. The local mayor is to deliver sand and gravel nearby to the water tank construction site this Wednesday. The following week we will begin brigade work by preparing the spring-source and tank sites as well as places to store materials and mix concrete at these sites. This will give brigades and their captains a chance to organize themselves working on relatively simple tasks of shoveling, loading mules and donkeys, and picking/shoveling flat areas. Following that week, we should receive money from the Dominican Fundación ADEMI, to make a first large parchase of PVC pipes from a manufacturer in the Capital. This will allow us to begin construction of the nearly six kilometers of pipeline that have to be dug by hand to a depth of 1.5 to 3 feet. Depending on what other funding sources come through first, we may also construct the ferrocement water tank and part of the spring intake works in July. Burying all of the pipes will take over four months.
Now that local funding is coming through, beneficiaries are doing a decent job of paying the monthly quota, and we are prepared to work, I would like to invite you to contribute to the project. I have applied for a Peace Corps Partnership Project grant to fund Acueducto para un Futuro Mejor de Rio Grande al Medio. Despite the fancy name, this really means Ryan soliciting donations from family, friends, coworkers, acquaintances, or complete strangers who find this project interesting and worthwhile. I have applied for US$5000. This is about a third of the money we need in total (US$16,000) to construct the water system. In the event that the water system is overfunded whether due to lots of success finding other funding sources or due to really great engineering and cost savings during construction, left over materials and funding would be used for equally important projects like latrine or improved cook stove construction.
Here are Peace Corps directions for donating to my project:
The easiest way to donate is to use this link,
https://www.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=resources.donors.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=517-373
, or visit www.peacecorps.gov/donate
Although, the web site is the quickest way to make a donation, you may also make a check payable to Peace Corps Partnership Program and send it to:
Paul D. Coverdell Peace Corps Headquarters
Peace Corps Partnership Program, OPSI
1111 20th Street NW Washington DC 20526
Be sure to indicate the project number, 517-373, on the check so it will be applied to the correct project.
If you donate, I promise to bake you banana bread in my cute little pan while boring you with ‘had to be there’ stories of the Dominican Republic when I return to the US. You are welcome to send me questions via this blog, email, or facebook. If you haven’t yet, visit my PICASA web photo album. There are pictures mixed in specifically related to the water project.
Enjoy the summer wherever you are, and I’ll try to write sooner next time. -Ryan
Friday, April 30, 2010
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Power outages make for a bad wardrobe
Monday, March 1, 2010
Direct from Colinas Mall!
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Well, this is my five minute update. I just finished a three month “In service training conference” in the most likely Amazing and beautiful mountains of Jarabacoa. We didn’t really see mucho of the landscape since we were working the three days we were there. The city seemed very nice and I had good bread for the first time simce arriving in this country. I also got my shoes cleaned by a kid in the park. They’re so much better at Cleaning my shoes than I am! However, as I walked away, one of the kids apparently squirted soapy water on my clean shoe – destroying its beautiful luster however temporarily. Before I realizad what had happened they were done Laughing and had dissapeared. Hopefully I can go back to Jarabacoa some day, it would be a great place to take visitors.
Thursday afternoon and Friday morning I spent in the big city of Santiago – this is on my way home. It was great since I was able to tour around the city some with other volunteers who actually live there and I also got a few different errands done related to my project ( the current price of 1/4inch rebar is 33pesos by the way). I even went to a mall -- in the food court there was burger king, kfc, pizza hut, and dominoes. I ate chinese -- it was actually pretty good.
This weekend besides a bunch of work I need to do writing reports and funding requests/applications, I’m hoping to make some valentine\s day phone calls and perhaps dance a valentine’s day merengue. The merengue really won’t be that exciting since its what we’d do here for any holiday or random day of partying. I’m curious to see if people pass out those chalky candy hearts that say BE MINE or LOVE’S 4 EVR on them. I sure hope they do, but I imagine they would need to have longer and more intricate Dominican cat calls on them.
Until next time - & sorry this one wasn\t really very funny or interesting. Haven't been taking many photos lately but maybe I'll put a couple up -- it's tough to get a good enough internet connection to accomplish this.
Letter to grandma
The following is an email I sent to my grandma some time ago. I liked it and didn't want to write more, so I thought I would share it. I don't think she'll mind.
Hi Grandma,
I realized that I haven’t sent you a letter or postcard yet, perhaps in February! Anyways, I’m going to try to call you today but am not sure if it will work. Hope that you got to try the hot chocolate and coffee I sent. I’m not sure if the coffee will be all that great. – It is certainly a very very dark roast. Sometimes it’s really good here and other times I think it’s only enjoyable because they put SO much sugar in it. Reminds me of Nick and his tea cups, except these are grown adults and Nick’s tea would be considered lacking sugar – or even ‘bitter’.
Nina mentioned to me the other day that all I ever write about in my blog is food – at least it’s always mentioned. But I sort of have to, life is very simple here in that way (which I like). There isn’t a whole lot to think about here besides the heat, the cold, the rain, the mud, and the fruits. Some volunteers suspect that this is why so many Dominicans spend a good part of their day and pocketbook on lottery tickets. Each day they wait around for signs telling them which numbers to play – it’s simultaneously amusing and sickening to a cheap but romantic guy like me. Just now I’m watching some lizards make love – they aren’t nearly as funny to watch as the ducks. We recently finished some rainy cold weather, which reminded me of a rainy day in the summer in the trailer in Paradise. The ducks, which live nowhere near any pond or other body of water really liked it, but I had a constant longing for the ‘walk like an Egyptian’ song, sandy carpeting, ritz crackers, and ‘The Gods must be crazy’.
Movies and reading are fun here. I’ve begun reading at night. I generally am avoiding reading since it’s probably the most common way for volunteers to avoid their work. By work I mean sitting around and chilling with the gente (people). If you can imagine, Dominicans don’t sit around in their living room quietly each reading their own novel. However, we did sit in the living room this morning watching RAMBO, now that’s America! So anyways, Rambo and Jackie Chan by day, and at night I fall asleep reading about some guy’s adventures in Austrailia living with Aboriginees. It’s really nothing like Crocodile Dundee, a bit like The God’s must be Crazy, and has interesting parallels to my experiences here.
I’ll close with more mention of food. The day before yesterday we picked a couple grapefruit while collecting firewood. I had a desire to eat them as I would at home – cut in half and with a serrated grapefruit spoon. WE do not have grapefruit spoons here. So I was a bit worried. As the dishes were dirty I couldn’t even find a decent sized regular teaspoon. I ended up applying the Dominican method for eating an orange (maybe I’ll send pictures later). After perhaps six months here, my life is changed forever, I will never have to search for a grapefruit spoon again. I can now enjoy delicious grapefruit with no more than a knife or machete and my own face.
However silly, I thought this was a good example of how the Peace Corps is a unique and life changing experience. There are so many things big and small, good and bad that I will learn here about life, people, grapefruit, and myself that I never could have imagined or planned for.
Love,
Ryan